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Jun 29, 2009

Try grilling inexpensive meat cuts this summer


Writing in the current StarChefs, Heather Sperling discusses how delicious economical meats---including heart, tongue, sweetbreads, and marrow bones---can be when grilled.

The French-trained Argentinian chef Francis Mallmann, for example, slow-cooks sweetbreads over a heap of hot, ash-covered wood embers; cooked long and slow enough, they lose their fat, becoming crisp and tender. All they need is a sprinkle of coarse salt and a squeeze of fresh lemon, and they’re ready to eat.

Sperling cites a few chefs who swear by beef heart, including Chris Cosentino of San Francisco’s Incanto. A well-trimmed been heart is essentially a large piece of red, flavor-filled meat. One of his heart recipes: Grilled Beef Heart with Roasted Golden Beets & Horseradish (see photo immediately below).


Many people are disinclined to tackle cooking or eating innards. When it comes to tackling economical meats, they might be more happy with something like pork blade steak. Cut from pork shoulder, blade steaks are well-marbled and flavorful.

Here’s a grilling recipe for pork blade from Chef Mark Fuller of Seattle’s Spring Hill Restaurant & Bar (adapated by StarChefs):

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Pork Blade Steak with Greens, Potatoes and Lemon Herb Butter
Serves 2
Ingredients :

Roasted Potatoes:
8 ounces russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch by 2-inch pieces
Kosher salt (½ cup salt per gallon of water)
2 ounces olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Lemon Herb Butter:
1 pound unsalted butter
2 teaspoons kosher salt
¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup chopped chives
¼ cup chopped parsley
2 tablespoons chopped thyme

Sautéed Greens:
Olive oil
6 ounces baby kale or escarole
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Juice of ½ a lemon

Pork Steaks:
2 8-ounce pork shoulder blade steaks
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Olive oil

Method :

For the Roasted Potatoes:
Preheat the oven to 425°F. Boil the potatoes in salted water until they are slightly overcooked. Strain the potatoes and spread them evenly on a sheet pan; allow to cool. Once the potatoes are cooled, toss with olive oil and season with pepper. Roast until golden-brown.

For the Lemon Herb Butter:
In a mixer with a paddle attachment, whip together the butter, salt and lemon juice. Once the butter is whipped and the lemon juice is completely incorporated, fold in the chives, parsley and thyme.

For the Sautéed Greens:
Add the olive oil to a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil starts to shimmer, add the greens and quickly season with salt and pepper. Squeeze the juice from the lemon over the greens and remove from the heat.

For the Pork Steaks:
Season the pork shoulder blade steaks with salt and pepper. Rub with olive oil and grill over wood or charcoals.
To Assemble and Serve: Top the pork steak with a generous dollop of lemon herb butter, and serve with potatoes and greens

If you'd like to know more about the maker of the poster shown at the top, contact Sugar Mountain Farm.
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